If you’re looking for something that’s pretty much a “one-stop” squeezable solution to your gun-cleaning problems, PrOlix Lubricant may be what you’re looking for. A “multi-mission” solvent, it cleans, lubricates and preserves. During the cleaning process, it leaves a dry lubricant, which is drawn into the pores of the metal. The end result is a skin-like protective coating.
My first experience with PrOlix was a rather heavy-duty one. I had several revolvers in various stages of what I’ll simply refer to as “uncleanliness.” Some were blued, some were stainless (PrOlix is also equally effective on—and kind to—nickel finishes). All had light leading in the barrel as well as surface carbon burns, burnt powder and assorted contaminants—petrified lube and oil residue—in various nooks and crannies.
After scrubbing a couple of fairly dirty revolver barrels with a copper brush soaked in PrOlix, I ran a couple of patches through to see what came out. (For this stage of the operation, some guys I know like to use a wet patch wrapped around a slightly undersize brush). Normally, I’d go with a bore snake for this to avoid pushing a rod down from the muzzle end, but I wanted to see to see what was getting dredged up. The first patch, of course, was pretty cruddy, but after one or two more, things brightened up considerably.
The dry lubing did create a protective byproduct I particularly appreciated when I cleaned the yoke assembly and ejector rod on a fairly well-used (and occasionally shamefully abused) old S&W Model 15.
Much of the prior gumminess was due to semi-petrified lubricants combined with the gun’s lengthy hiatus from the range. I confess to occasionally committing the original sin of over-oiling revolvers, which, no doubt, was a result of having lived in a very humid area of the Midwest for a couple of years. So, after an initial blast of aerosol degreaser and a wipe-down, I applied the PrOlix and a touch of PrOlix X-Tra T Lube and the old M15’s cylinder was once again back to its freewheeling ways.
For removing burn rings from the cylinder face of a stainless Ruger GP100 Match Champion, I found scrubbing with a PrOlix soaked steel brush removed the “bulk of the black,” but resorted to a Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth for final touch-up.
Editor Jeff introduced me to a lazy man’s technique he uses on his pet rimfires. Simply squirt a bit of PrOlix near the embedded brush bristles on a .22 Bore Snake before you pull it on through. No muss, no fuss and no smelly mess. That’s about as easy a method of cleaning your .22’s barrel as you’re likely to find.
If things have really gotten out of hand, of course, you can soak your handgun—or rifle bolts and assorted AR parts—in a shallow pan full of PrOlix (but first remove the grip panels). In fact, the company offers metal mesh dip baskets—not to mention mega-containers of PrOlix in 64-ounce and 1-gallon sizes. For seriously fouled bores, the company recommends thinning J-B’s Bore Cleaner with PrOlix as an initial scrubbing mixture. The stuff is biodegradable, practically odorless, and about as environmentally righteous as you’re going to find. And it will not harm Glock polymer frames.
By Jeff John
For initial scrubbing of burn rings on revolver cylinders, scrubbing with a PrOlix-dipped brush
is very effective (below). If you’re dealing with stainless steel, a final touch-up with a
lead-removal cloth will make things perfect.
Maintenance department: PrOlix Lubricant (left) cleans as well as serving as a conventional
gun oil substitute. PrOlix X-Tra T Lube takes care of chores normally handled by grease.
PrOlix Lubricant is odorless, biodegradable and very efficient at cleaning and preserving
your gun’s bore. This PrOlix-soaked patch brought out a bunch of gunk after initial
scrubbing with a brush.
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